Amy and Ben Snyder cheers with breaded scallops and wontons.

Text and Photos
By Shari Benyousky
Guest Columnist

Column Note: In the 77th column in the Diners and Dives series, some Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club members explore Syracuse.

SYRACUSE — Kiyomi is a Japanese name with two parts. Kiyo means pure and mi means beauty. Kiyomi Japanese Restaurant at 404 S. Huntington St., in Syracuse more than hits this mark with gorgeous presentations, and fresh, high-quality food.

Smiles, Tails, Chopsticks

We gathered a mix of wildcards, united by their love of sushi, or at least curiosity about Japanese food. First to arrive was Wildcard Ben Bingham of The Underground Hound in Warsaw, a huge Kiyomi aficionado, who had reserved the table.

Kelly brings the shrimp and sweet potato sushi rolls.

“Look,” Ben told us happily. “If I’m in Syracuse, I’m here at Kiyomi.” He kicked off the meal by ordering edamame appetizers for the table. Edamame is a steamed soybean that is still in the pod and served with salt. To enjoy them, squeeze the pods until the beans pop into your mouth and discard the pods.

Next to arrive were Wildcards Ben and Amy Snyder of Guidepost Insurance, both regulars at Kiyomi. “This is my favorite place!” Ben greeted owner Kelly and her mom and ordered an enormous platter of sushi.

Our last wildcard was David Neff, executive director of Kosciusko Senior Services. A newcomer to Kiyomi, David studied the menu before deciding on a Chicken Teriyaki bento box. He nodded as regular Funeral Planner Brittany Lyons arrived. “I know Brittany. Once long ago when I was single and on a date, she came over to my table and told me, ‘We have those senior diapers for you, Dave.’ I had a lot of explaining to do with my date!”

Wicked, Green, Bulging

Before our food arrived, we passed around Halloween hats, sparking a mix of groans and laughter over who would wear which. Other diners glanced over, and we offered extra hats to anyone up for joining the fun. Shoutout to Ariana, Abby, and Jerry, who proudly wore ridiculous headgear with us while digging into sushi.

Amy Snyder gave Realtor Jeff Owens some playful advice as he hesitated over a giant ogre eyeball hat. “You’re always making eyes at something. Might as well put one on your head!” We instantly knew Amy was our kind of person.

Old Friends, Furry Friends, Fine Fish

A curious reader might wonder what connects a senior center, a dog grooming studio, and a sushi spot, but one look at the long table of people laughing and sharing great food and connections, and it all clicks.

Realtor Jeff Owens chuckled. “In the Venn diagram of this whole mess, I connect with Senior Services by delivering mobile meals.” Owens was also the emcee of the Senior Center’s recent Dueling Pianos Fundraiser.

An order of hot edamame.

Bringing this “Venn diagram” to life takes craft, skill and heart, and Kiyomi’s owner Kelly delivers on all three. Chuckling at us, she brought out trays of sushi, bento boxes, and baskets of food to rounds of “oohs” and “aahs.” Her mother, also part of the family business, made sure we had hot tea, chopsticks and sauces, adding a beautiful stuffed avocado ball with spicy tuna and special sauce.

Between bites of sweet potato and shrimp and cucumber rolls, I asked David Neff about his role with Senior Services, which provides Mobile Meals, handicapped van transport, and a Senior Activities Center. He joked, “It’s the only job where I’m considered young, tall, and good-looking!”

Speaking of good-looking, Senior Services will be hosting a Halloween lunch next Thursday and David will dress as Clark Kent. You might also see Amy dressed as a Chili Pepper or Ben as Obi-One-Kenobi. The Snyder’s and Guidepost Insurance’s connection is that they sponsor the lunches and Bingos at the SAC.

Neff, who chose a mummy hat, regaled us with stories of various colorful seniors who have come through while he has been the director. He obviously loves those who come through the SAC. “I’ve learned through the years that all of us are just a few chemical unbalances or careless steps from needing something like this.”

I asked Amy what a Bingo player might win at one of their monthly Bingo events. “Oh, simple things like toilet paper, Kleenex, cookies, home décor, paper plates. They love household supplies.”

Ben Snyder added, “The most popular is Crunch’n Munch or Fiddle Faddle.”

Aging, Wagging, Rolling

Realtor Owens held his enormous bowl of Udon Noodle Soup and turned to Underground Hound Ben Bingham, “So, to connect you too, how many of your dogs are seniors?”

David Neff loves his first time at Kiyomi.

Bingham gestured with his chopsticks. “Actually, the majority of my clients would be seniors too.” Underground Hound specializes in stress-free and cage-free dog grooming. “We like to build relationships with each dog, so nothing is scary.” They groom 100-130 dogs each week and have 12 groomers.

Bingham also splits his time down in North Carolina where he is building a cabin. “From scratch,” he explained. “I even do all my own milling of lumber from my land. But my little town got flooded and washed away in the hurricane, so all my lumber is currently holding up the last two salvageable buildings in town.”

“You’re building your own cabin?!” Orthopedic Consultant Kris Williams finished the last of his miso soup and murmured, “That was the best miso soup I’ve ever had.”

“I learned how to do it from my dad in the UP.” Bingham showed us pictures of his progress. “And down there, if there’s something you don’t know how to do, there’s a bunch of old guys who will tell you. But everything’s on hold right now.”

Clean Paws, Warm Hearts, Bold Flavors

Ben Snyder was still working on his sushi platter. He and his wife, Amy, have experience in the wild too. Long before insurance, they were once missionaries in Africa. Ben’s path includes many turns: he learned to pilot and fix a bush plane, holds a doctorate in biblical studies, and was an Anglican priest. “But I love my job now,” he finishes his salmon. “I wouldn’t change a thing.”

“How did you two meet?” I asked.

Amy finished her California roll and answered, “It was a get-your-roommate-a-date weekend at Moody Bible Institute. I asked my roommate to set me up with one of three Bens and she chose this one.”

Amy and Ben Snyder wave goodbye to Diners and Dives.

“What’s the most exotic thing you saw as missionaries?” I snagged the last scallop with my chopsticks.

Amy laughed. “I was pregnant in Africa, and we were eating dinner at a friend’s house by candlelight — no electricity. I asked what the meat was, and our friend said, ‘Oh mama, it’s a special dish from my village.’ A moment later, I leaned over to Ben and whispered, ‘I think I have a toenail.’”

Banker Paul’s eyes widened as huge as the giant ogre eye hat on his head. “It was crocodile, wasn’t it!”

Amy nodded. “Yep. Tastes like chicken, even the knuckles.”

None of us are getting any younger, so even though Kiyomi doesn’t serve crocodile, you can get some excellent chicken if sushi isn’t your thing. Say hello to Kelly and her mom, and look for her son, Jerry. You’ll see photos of him growing up behind the desk if you miss him.

TIP – At 10 a.m. Tuesday, Nov. 12, at the SAC, the Liberty Sewing Circle will put on Threads of Valor.

Do you know of an interesting place, restaurant, nonprofit, or person that you’d like to see featured in Diners and Dives? Send Shari Benyousky an email at [email protected].